245 years of the travel of the Adams (USA presidents) by the Basque Country

Let´s make a travel on time: January 1780, 245 years ago, John Adams and his son John Quincy Adams travel through what is now the Basque Country (Spain and France) on their way to Paris… Many of my guests are interested in this event when they visit Bilbao. Others, on their tours designed together with me through the Basque Country. They are not only attracted by the historical event itself, which has value in itself, but also by the route they took, the gastronomy they tasted, the places they visited, and their admiration for the culture and the works of art.

The Adams’ party enters the Basque Country, on their mules and carriages, through the Pancorbo gorge from Castile. It is not necessary to travel the route on mules today; but if you feel like it, we can arrange it for you. We accompany you in a car, at your side, in case you need any help. At the detour to Vitoria or Bilbao, they turn north to meet their Bilbao host Diego Gardoqui. Some details of their journey through the Spanish Basque provinces of Álava, Vizcaya and Guipúzcoa can serve as a tourist guide for a future trip to the Basque Country. I also describe in this article the cities of the French Basque Country through which they passed.

The Congress of the rebels in the Thirteen Colonies had appointed John Adams as Plenipotentiary Minister to negotiate Peace with Great Britain and also to negotiate a Trade Treaty with that Kingdom. The breakdown of the ship led them to disembark in El Ferrol, La Coruña, Spain. And they decided together with Francis Dana (secretary of the peace commission of the Congress and also considered Founding Father of the USA like John Adams) and Mr. Thaxter (private secretary of Adams and tutor of the Adams children) to continue by land. They were also accompanied by Charles, the youngest son of John and Abigail Adams; and two servants of the family.

 

The Adams’ Journey through the Basque Province of Álava

John Quincy Adams was impressed when he crossed the Pancorbo Gorge. He commented in his diary: I have never seen such a beautiful view in my life. The landscape is described by his father as two rows of completely rocky mountains, with the highest and steepest cliffs I have ever seen. These rocky mountains formed the boundary between ancient Castile and Biscay. It is, without a doubt, one of the most unique landscapes in Spain.

On January 13th they entered the province of Álava (now the Basque Country) at the town called Puentelarrá, after crossing the bridge over the Ebro River. Puentelarrá was called Vindeleia in Roman times; but in the year 853 it was called Larrate and was part of Old Castile. It is a key point on the trade route from Castile to the sea and to the beautiful and necessary salt mines of Añana in Alava. They must have seen the church, the bowling alley, the fountains… The city of Vitoria, the provincial capital since then, is now known as Vitoria-Gasteiz. They did not pass through it, although the settler Arthur Lee did so two years earlier in search of support from the Spanish Crown.

The Adams followed the Camino del Señorío crossing a beautiful plain to the town of Espejo. Here we found the best bar we had seen so far, John tells us. They were struck by the impressive tavern where they stayed, but they were terrified by the number of religious images in the place and in the rooms. Today in Espejo there is a tavern that reminds us of that time and where excellent local delicacies are tasted. Eating there I managed to find out, thanks to the historian of the region, where the Adams stayed on January 13th, 1780. The town has two medieval towers, stately buildings, and an interesting church around the Omecillo River, a tributary of the Ebro. It is located at the crossroads of two ancient Roman roads.

Afterwards, they rode in the morning along a road that, according to John, it has been built all the way with art, at great cost... the descent from the Orduña mountains was a great curiosity. I was even more amazed when I read in John Adams’ diary not only what he tells, but also how he draws the winding road.

The view from the Puerto de Orduña lookout point is still spectacular! It is a shame that travelers, as they did not know, they have not seen the highest waterfall in the Iberian Peninsula, which is only 7 kilometers away. If you want to see it, be sure to include it in your travel plan.

Once in the beautiful, fertile and well-cultivated valley, they continued on to Orduña. Nearby is the Alava town of Unzaga, where the primitive manor house of that illustrious surname is located. And also Luis Unzaga, the Spanish Governor of Louisiana, the first person in the world to name the Thirteen Colonies as the United States of America. The Adamses tell us that, after eating, they followed the path that follows the course of a small river that rises in the mountains of Orduña (the Nervión river which later crosses Bilbao), and we went down between two rows of mountains to Lugiando, where we stopped to spend the night four leagues from Bilbao.

The town of Luiaondo (Luyando in Basque) is built along the old “Royal Road” or “Road of the Lordship of Biscay”. It is a town with a lot of history, such as the “Malato Tree” (the one that appears on the coat of arms of Biscay and borders the Lordship of Biscay), the hamlet of Ayo where Juan de Garay (founder of Buenos Aires) was born, and some tower houses. It has the oldest active bridge on the Nervión River. It is the last town in the province of Álava. The next morning, under a persistent rain until midday, they continued their journey towards Bilbao, now in the lands of Biscay. The road runs alongside the river, between two rows of mountains.

 

Attention & guided tour of Bilbao to the Adams by Diego Gardoqui & Aitor Delgado

The city of Bilbao, which is called the Republic of Bilbao, is surrounded by mountains. This natural uniqueness is what makes the locals call it the “bocho”. An affectionate nickname that was popularized by the most famous local writer of Bilbao and of the Castilian language: Miguel de Unamuno. And he told us this: I must say that bocho means in Bilbao a hole made in the ground, like the one made to play marbles.

On January 15th, 1780, around 1 o’clock we arrived in Bilbao, according to John Quincy. Given the distance to travel from Luiaondo, and the time of arrival, it is very likely that they entered the town through the Portal de Ibeni (Atxuri). They mention in one of their later walks that we went to the gate, through which we had entered the city, then we climbed the mountain by the stone stairs, where we saw some beautiful gardens, with greenery and vegetation. Another theory to investigate, less likely, is that they entered Bilbao via the Calzada de Mallona (by the stairs). At both entrances there were orchards and gardens.

The tavern where we got off was tolerable, for Spain, located between a church and a monastery. Today the tavern and the monastery do not exist. The old “San Nicolás inn” is currently occupied by the headquarters of the Bilbao Vizcaya Argentaria Bank. This inn was the only accommodation for the Adams in the town. In the Plazuela de San Nicolás itself, right at the current entrance to the metro, was the Convent of Santa Clara. In the church of San Nicolás, to which it refers, there are currently five Rococo altarpieces and some magnificent sculptures that you should not miss. This was the fishermen’s quarter, and the shipyards and moorings for the ships. The painter Luis Paret shows us, in his painting from 1783, the area where the Adams’ rest inn was.

By special invitation we went down the river to visit the Rambler, an eighteen-gun letter of marque belonging to Mr. Andrew Cabot of Beverly, Captain Lovat in command, and the Phoenix, a fourteen-gun brig belonging to Messieurs Traceys of Newbury Port, Captain Babson in command. …. We dined at the waterfront tavern and spent a pleasant day. The trading house of Joseph Gardoqui & Sons had strong relations with the Tracey and Cabot families, and with other American, French and Spanish trading companies. With them they supplied, from 1775 to 1781, many military supplies needed by the Continental Army in the American War of Independence.

We visited the docks on the river, went through the markets, which we found abundantly stocked… we walked one after another through all the streets of the city… We met the Mr. and Mrs. Gardoquis, who accompanied us to show us the commercial side of the town. They took us to various shops selling glass, porcelain, trinkets, toys and cutlery… there were various shops and warehouses, quite large and full of merchandise. These and other activities that interest you can be included in your personalized tours with me, just by asking. John Adams sent his wife some cutlery, blankets, silk scarves and green tea.

And didn’t he take a Bilbao mirror with him? Not that we know. Although there are those who believe that Diego Gardoqui made them fashionable on the east coast of the USA.

…the gentlemen accompanied us to the parish church opposite Mr. Gardoqui’s house, and then to the old parish church of San Yago, which is known with certainty to have been standing in the year 1300… The main altar seems to be very old and is carved with wooden figures, with very careful work… Then we went to the Chamber of the Board of Trade. The Chamber is decorated with portraits of the present King and Queen of Spain, the deceased King and Queen, the Royal Stock Exchange in London, the Amsterdam Stock Exchange and the Antwerp Stock Exchange, etc. The Church of Santiago is still standing, and if you wish we can visit it. Not so the Consulate of Bilbao, which ceased to exist in 1828.

 

Basque province Guipúzcoa also saw the Adams pass by

On the fifth day of their stay in Bilbao and the seventh in Basque Country, on January 20th, 1780, the Adams continued their travel to Paris. It is not surprising that their departure, at 3pm, was through the district of San Nicolás where they were staying. The Sendeja road would take them out of Bilbao through Campo del Volantín. In the diaries of John and John Quincy there are few comments about the two days before crossing the border with France. Except for a mention of the town of Fuenterrabía. In other texts though, I was able to obtain a few details.

On the twentieth, however, we gathered enough resolution to leave Bilbao and, crossing a mountainous country… After eight or nine leagues of bad road, we found the roads excellent and the taverns along the way very comfortable. I assure you that we discovered two or three beautiful chimneys, in addition to those mentioned to us, which contributed not a little to our health and comfort.

We were all very pleased with the appearance of the country across Biscay and Guipuzcoa, the houses seemed spacious and adequately distributed on the farms, instead of appearing like small villages with ruined mud walls.

I have ventured to speculate where they spent the night these two days (January 20th and 21st). I am not making any assertions, as I am starting from the few ideas expressed by John Adams in the Basque province of Guipúzcoa. I have seen some maps, texts and studies of the time. On the 20th they could have slept in Durango, Eibar or in Placencia de las Armas. Just at the time of their passage through these last two towns mentioned, the muskets and other military provisions that Spain sent to the colonists of the Thirteen Colonies were being made there.

The Royal Arms Factory of Placencia supplied the Gardoqui from 1775 until approximately 1778 in their shipments from Bilbao to the American Revolution. The Spanish Crown officially entered the conflict in 1779. And the shipments were made from the Guipuzcoan port of Pasajes by the Royal Guipuzcoan Company of Caracas. The parts and pieces were assembled on Margarita Island. They were also used as spare parts for the weapons already sent.

In the last house in Spain we found a fireplace… On the last day on Spanish soil the entourage may have stayed (I continue to speculate) in San Sebastian. Or in its surroundings, such as in Lasarte, Astigarraga or Hernani. John Adams reported that there is an Academy, in Bergara, for the education of the youth of Vizcaya, Guipúzcoa and Álava. He refers to the Royal Seminary of Nobles of Vergara, created by the Royal Basque Society of Friends of the Country. This place would have diverted them greatly from their route, so I ruled it out without hesitation as a place of overnight rest.

On our way we saw some towns and, in particular, Fontarabbia at some distance. …we arrive at the river, or rather the stream that divides Spain from France. Today the flow is very good. Shad, salmon, greyfish and even lampreys give us an idea of ​​the quality of its waters. And the natural environment is fantastic, like the whole of the Basque Country!

 

The Adams’ first travel through Basque France Country

They finally arrived in France on January 22nd, their destination country. They were still in the Basque Country: in the province of Labort. We arrived in Saint Jean de Luz, the first town in France, and had dinner there. They spent the night in this beautiful fishing village, where some French corsairs were also sleeping. Of course, there were not many people there like nowadays during summer, when it is a paradise for French tourists and lovers of luxury from all over the world. I am almost certain that they visited the seaside church of Saint John the Baptist before leaving for Bayonne the next day.

At 5 pm we arrived in Bayonne. Here we paid our Spanish guide with his entire retinue of horses, carriages, carts, mules and servants. To do them justice, they had always shown a willingness to help us and be friends as much as they could, and we had no reason to complain of any improper behavior from any of them. I was obliged to sell my mule, for which I was much grieved, as it was an excellent animal, and had served me very well. I sold it for what it cost me. We bought a post-coach, and hired others for our journey. I paid my visit to the Governor, and received yours in return.

In a letter to the Gardoqui’s from Bayonne, January 24th, 1780, John Adams has just time to inform you, with the return of our guide, that we all arrived at this place last night safe and sound, and in better health than when we left you… Mr. Dana, Mr. Thaxter, and Mr. Allen, with all the children, join me in presenting to your House our most sincere thanks for the thousand courtesies and essential assistance we received at Bilbao. Our guide and his people behaved extremely well, and did all in their power for our accommodation. I have the honor to be, with much respect and esteem, gentleman, your most attentive and obedient servant.

From the diary of John Quincy Adams. Tuesday 25th. We left about 9 o’clock, and after about 9-thirty it began to snow. It snowed for 2 hours. And his father tells us: we started our journey to Bordeaux. There is so much heath and uncultivated land, and so many desolate places, between Bayonne and Bordeaux, that the journey could not have been very pleasant….

The Adams party travelled through the Basque Country for 12 days in the month of January 1780. They spent 2 days in the province of Alava, 5 days in Biscay, 2 in Guipúzcoa and 3 in Labort. You do not have to plan the same time amount, although I advise you to visit us for at least 5 days. The Adams would achieve their goal of reaching Paris on February 9th, 1780.

 

The Adams and the Gardoqui meet again on other travels

The relationship between the Adams and the Gardoqui was not only limited, as is known, to the numerous correspondence between them, or the mentions of each other in their family letters. Nor was it limited to the diplomatic and personal relationship between them, with John Adams being the first Vice President of the United States of America. Diego Gardoqui was the first Chargé d’Affaires of Spain in the former Thirteen Colonies (officially the first Spanish ambassador to the USA).

Diego Gardoqui maintained a close personal and correspondence relationship with Abigail Adams. In one of her letters to her husband John Adams, Abigail informs him that: On a ship belonging to my uncles bound for Bilbao I am writing you a few lines and entrusting them to the care of our friend Gardoqui, to whom I have written to ask for a few articles… He receives little Charles Adams again in Bilbao at the end of 1781. Gardoqui, in a personal letter to Abigail Adams, tells her that we have had the great pleasure and satisfaction of seeing with us your worthy and kind little son, Mr. Charles Adams, under the care of Major Jackson, with the intention of embarking to return home on board the armed ship Cicero, Captain Hugh Hill… For his part, John Adams tells Jackson, Charles’s tutor, that: Please ask Mr. Gardoqui to give you anything you may need and to turn to me for this.

You can also request me to learn about the towns and cities that the Adams visited in their travel in Basque Country, or to admire the works of art that they saw. You will also experience modern Basque markets and shops, taste our renowned cuisine, and see the great natural contrasts of our valleys and coastal areas…just as the Adams did (or much better).

 

Extras:

Let me tell you about other articles I wrote in 2016, in my first years as a tour guide. On them, you will be able to see the complete route that the Adams took from El Ferrol to Bayonne, and a summary of some days from John Adams’ diary. You can also see details about the sculpture of John Adams in Bilbao, and some ideas of the food products that the Adams tasted on their trip through Spanish and French lands at the end of 1779 and beginning of 1780.

• The travel of two US presidents in Spain and France http://www.aitordelgado.net/2016/02/travel-in-Spain-and-France-of-two-us-presidents-John-Adams-from-Ferrol-to-Paris-via-Coruna-Leon-Burgos-Bilbao-and-Bayonne.html
• Unusual guide of the Basque Country by the US president John Adams http://www.aitordelgado.net/2016/03/unusual-guide-of-basque-country-by-us-president-John-Adams.html
• Remembering John Adams tour in Bilbao with his sculpture in Gran Via http://www.aitordelgado.net/2016/03/john-adams-US-president-tour-in-Bilbao-sculpture-Gran-Via.html
• Luxury Tasting Food trip review of an American President in the Basque Country & Spain in the 1700’s http://www.aitordelgado.net/2016/05/luxury-tasting-food-trip-review-of-american-president-in-Bilbao-Basque-Country-and-North-Spain.html